Riga, the largest city in the three Baltic states (Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania), is not quite as polished and romantic as Tallinn, but it’s an engaging and interesting place, full of good food and drink. Lonely Planet summarizes the spirit well: “People here fancy themselves to be the least pragmatic and the most artistic of the Baltic lot. They prove the point with myriad festivals and a merry, devil-may-care attitude – well, a subdued Nordic version of it.”
Speaking of Nordic, as a side note, when Sweden had an empire that included Riga (1600s), Stockholm was the empire’s second-most-populous city after Riga!
In my experience, English isn’t spoken as well here as in Tallinn, but it was usually ok. As my DK Baltics book notes, there’s still a significant Russian population: “The ‘liberation’of Riga by the Red Army in 1944 ushered in almost five decades of Communist rule, and there are still more ethnic Russians than Latvians in Riga; relations between the two communities are cordial but rarely warm.” It’s awkward for those that haven’t learned the Latvian language: “Although Russians form the majority in Latvia’s major cities, a significant proportion of them are not citizens, as they have not taken the mandatory language and citizenship tests. They cannot vote in national elections, nor are they allowed to travel and work freely in the EU.”
Given the legacy of occupation by both Soviets and Nazis, just as in Tallinn I toured occupation and KGB museums here. Tour guides were very forthright about their negative opinion of Putin and the Russian government. A local monument (the “Freedom Monument”) honoring soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence from an invading Soviet Union (1918–1920) was somehow never demolished during the decades that Latvia was part of the USSR. However, according to Lonely Planet, throughout the entire Soviet period, the monument was strictly off-limits, and anyone attempting to place flowers at the monument’s base would be in trouble.
Relations with Russia continue to be quite strained, especially after the invasion of Ukraine. Latvia’s foreign minister just this month warned that Russia won’t stop if they defeat Ukraine, and other officials fear attacks on the Baltics: “Kariņš is not the first top official to warn about Russia’s military ambitions beyond Ukraine. Last month, Belgian army chief Michel Hofman said the Kremlin could set its eyes on Moldova and the Baltic countries after Kyiv.” (Politico)
The threat is so tangible, that after over 200 years of neutrality, Sweden is now sending troops to Latvia to help with defence, despite not being in NATO yet:
Sweden—sat in the NATO waiting room until Hungary and Turkey drop their opposition to Stockholm’s accession—has committed to sending “ground combat units” to take part in alliance operations along the Russian border.
https://www.newsweek.com/next-nato-member-commits-troops-russia-border-after-200-year-neutrality-1858937
Prime Minister Ulf Kristersson said on Monday that Stockholm would not wait for ratification of its membership bid by the two rogue alliance parliaments in Ankara and Budapest, and would send Swedish troops to Latvia on NATO’s eastern frontier.
Riga trivial tidbits:
There are over 750 buildings in Riga that flaunt Art Nouveau styles, meaning that Riga has the most Art Nouveau architecture of any city in the world.
In addition to those buildings, as was the case in Tallinn also, Riga has a surprising number of residual old wooden buildings.
There are also many empty buildings all around the city. Unfortunately Latvia’s population is now almost 1/3 smaller than it was in 1990! So many have emigrated to other countries, especially in the EU, now that they can, for better work and pay opportunities.
Christmas trees were still up around town through Jan 13. Riga claims to be where decorated Christmas trees originated, so residents take them seriously here.
After the Russian invasion of Ukraine, the Riga city government renamed the street on which the Russian embassy is located to Ukrainian Independence Street! So now every mail item that arrives is addressed to Ukrainian independence! Awesome move. I understand that additional cities have done this too in other countries.
Speaking of Ukraine, President Zelenskyy visited Riga while I was in the city. I had come across a huge police presence and a video team when I walked by the Riga castle, and only later did I learn what was going on. Here he is exiting the plane upon arrival.
Restaurants and bars play loud music outside to draw you in. Each place has its own musical style. I’m not sure what the noise ordinances look like, haha.
Here’s a hodge-podge collection of Latvian photos:
To try to prevent the Soviets from keeping the Latvians from their desired independence, thousands of regular citizens worked feverishly to erect numerous barricades around the city of Riga in January 1991.
If you don’t know whether you like Latvian folk music and dancing, definitely take a look at these videos. And how amazing is it that they assembled 1% of the entire country’s population to get together and dance in one place?
Today’s dad joke: Why didn’t I try to learn Latvian before traveling to Latvia?
Because the study required seemed overly Riga-rous!
Bonus dad joke: What type of pasta do Latvians prefer?
Riga-toni!
Today’s bonus insight: I must admit that I’m rather proud to have been able to pare down my travel items to the point that I can use just this 35-liter backpack (plus my jackets, which aren’t shown) for a 7.5-week trip in the wintertime in northern Europe! Three long-sleeve quick-dry shirts, two dressier long-sleeve shirts, three pairs of jeans, three short-sleeve quick-dry shirts, three pairs of long wool socks, one pair of short sport socks (to double up when needed), one pair of long-john pants, four pairs of underwear, toiletries, large laptop, laptop charger, phone charger, backup phone, MacGyver kit, snacks, two books, notebook paper, sunglasses, two pairs of reading glasses, phone charger, watch charger, supplements, night guard, a mini-backpack (yes, there’s a backpack in the left pocket of the larger backpack), extra currency, waterproof backpack cover, and more. Granted, I must wear some of this stuff to get the rest into the backpack, haha. One key is a single pair of shoes. The conveniences of the single backpack way outweigh the downside of less stuff — namely, I don’t have to drag a suitcase through the slush, puddles, or snow; I keep my hands free when transitioning between places; I don’t have to pay for a checked bag; I keep the bag in my sight when in planes, trains, and buses; and it’s just simpler in general. I do have to wash clothes with regularity, but I’d have to even if I brought more.
Major Meander 
Impressive packing! I think folk music from any country is great, and am so glad it is thriving there. It’s interesting that they have bagpipes and a sound reminiscent of Scottish and Native American music.
I’m immensely enjoying your posts, Scott (well, that may be an exaggeration w the dad joke section)! Keep ’em coming!
Thanks Joe! And I’ll keep up the dad jokes Riga-rdless of their groan elicitation. There’s a lot of Riga-marole involved in creating these jokes, but I vow to continue until I’m no longer capable, after my body becomes immobile with Riga-mortis.